Mafi kyawun Chocolate a San Francisco, Baya zuwa Gaba

Daga masu hakar gwal zuwa masu yin tace wake, cakulan mu na gida yana da tarihin tarihi - ƙari, inda za a sami mafi kyawun kyaututtuka a yau.

Idan kun yi tafiya har zuwa Ghirardelli Square, wanda ba shakka mazauna gida ba safai suke yi, kuma ku shiga cikin dogon layin masu yawon bude ido, za ku iya jin warinsa - cakulan a cikin iska.Ghirardelli baya kera cakulan da gaske a San Francisco, amma hakan baya rage kyalli na Original Ghirardelli Ice Cream & Chocolate Shop, tare da bulo da aka fallasa, dogo na tagulla, da darajar kayan aiki na zamani da nishadi. bayanan tarihi.Ba a ma maganar: gooey hot fudge sundaes.Narkewa kowace rana daga wafers, fudge ɗin yana da santsi mai santsi, tare da shelar emulsifiers da stabilizers, da ƙamshi da ke fitowa a dandalin kamar yadda Cinnabon kirfa ke ƙamshin kasuwa.

Chocolate yana da tarihin tarihi a San Francisco, daga masu hakar ma'adinai na farko da ke neman zinari zuwa masu yin zamani da ke tace wake.Fara fara dandana wannan al'adar - sannan, a daidai lokacin ranar soyayya, ci gaba da gungurawa ƙasa don wasu shawarwarin kyauta na mintuna na ƙarshe.

Gaskiya ce mai daɗi cewa Ghirardelli ita ce masana'antar cakulan mafi dadewa da ke gudana a Amurka.Bayan haka, da zarar ka fara goge kasan kwanon, za ka iya kusan dandana dukkan jerin abubuwan tarihin cakulan Amurka - tun daga lokacin Gold Rush, lokacin da baƙi Faransanci da Italiya suka fara samar da cakulan a babban sikeli, kuma ci gaba zuwa ƙaramin juyi na Scharffen Berger a ƙarshen karni.Sannan akwai sabon masana'anta mai kyalli na Dandelion, wanda hazakar California - bin diddigin abubuwan da suka dace da kuma kula da su a sauƙaƙe - yana taimakawa wajen jagorantar motsin cakulan a yau.Ta wannan hanyar, komawa baya ta hanyar masana'antar cakulan ta San Francisco kamar zazzagewa cikin rumbun adana cakulan a Amurka.

An kafa Ghirardelli a cikin 1852, tun kafin Hershey's a 1894 ko Nestlé Tollhouse a 1939. Domingo (an haife shi Domenico) Ghirardelli ɗan gudun hijirar Italiya ne wanda ya zo a lokacin Gold Rush, ya fara buɗe babban kantin sayar da kayayyaki a Stockton, sannan kantin alewa akan Kearny.Kamfanin ya koma Ginin Pioneer Woolen a bakin ruwa a 1893, inda Ghirardelli Square ke zama a yau.Abin ban mamaki, ya tsira daga girgizar kasa na 1906, yana komawa kasuwanci bayan kwanaki 10 kacal.Kwanakinsa a matsayin ƙarami, kasuwancin gida a San Francisco ya daɗe, duk da haka: Yanzu kamfanin mallakar Lindt ne, giant na duniya, kuma cakulan sa yana da daɗi kuma yana samar da taro a wuraren sa a San Leandro.

Abin da ba a sani ba shi ne cewa San Francisco kuma gida ne ga ɗayan tsoffin masana'antar cakulan mallakar iyali a ƙasar: Guittard, wanda ya sami damar kasancewa mai zaman kansa har ma ya samo asali a cikin ƙarni.An kafa kamfanin a cikin 1868, shekaru 16 kacal bayan Ghirardelli, kuma kowa ya rikita abokin hamayyar G's na asali tun daga lokacin.Etienne (“Eddy”) Guittard baƙon Bafaranshe ne wanda ya ɗan yi jinkiri ga gaggawa, kuma a maimakon haka ya sami arzikinsa a cikin kasuwancin niƙa, yana ajiye masu hakar ma’adinai a kofi, shayi, da cakulan.Asalin masana'antarsa ​​a Sansome ta kone a girgizar kasar, kuma dangin sun sake ginawa a Main, kusa da bakin ruwa na lokacin inda jiragen ruwa ke sauke wake.Yin hanya don babbar hanya, a ƙarshe masana'antar ta ƙaura zuwa Burlingame a cikin 1954, kuma tsara ta huɗu da na biyar na iyali ke tafiyar da ita a yau.

Gary Guittard, shugaban iyali na yanzu kuma tsara na huɗu na iyali, har yanzu yana tunawa da yawo a tsohuwar masana'anta a Main yana ɗan shekara 6, yana bin ɗan'uwansa ta cikin kunkuntar ginin bulo mai hawa uku, kuma ya yaudare shi ya ɗanɗana ɗaci. cakulan giya."Ya yi sanyi sosai.Zan ba da wani abu don samun [wannan ginin] a yau," in ji Guittard.“Za ka iya tunanin?duhu ne kuma bai girma sosai ba.Galibi na tuna wari.Muka gasa a hawa na uku, sai kawai kamshin wurin.”

Amma yayin da sauran kasashen duniya suka yi watsi da cakulan Amurkawa saboda yawan madara da zaki, Scharffen Berger ya shiga cikin gari a karshen karnin nan kuma ya fara yin salon cakulan duhu na cikin gida wanda yake da karfin gwiwa da dadi.Robert Steinberg, tsohon likita, da John Scharffenberger, mai yin giya, sun kafa kamfanin a cikin 1997, suna kawo bakin oenophile zuwa kasuwancin.Ba kamar waɗanda suka yi a baya ba, sun ɗauki cakulan kamar giya mai mahimmanci.Scharffen Berger ya fara gasa da niƙa wake a cikin ƙananan batches, yana fitar da duhu da dandano mai ban mamaki.Musamman ma, kamfanin ya yi iƙirarin cewa shi ne na farko da ya sanya kaso na cacao a kan takalmi, aƙalla a Amurka, wanda ke kan gaba ga ƙasar baki ɗaya.

Scharffenberger da sauri ya yi abokai masu ra'ayi a cikin wurin cakulan na gida.Michael Recchiuti wani mai cin abinci ne na gida wanda ba ya yin cakulan da kansa, amma yana narkewa kuma ya siffata shi a cikin truffles da confections, ƙwarewa na musamman.(“A Faransa, ana kiran ni da fondeur ko narke,” in ji shi.) Ya fara kasuwancin nasa ne a shekarar da Scharffen Berger, yana sayar da kayan abinci da aka ɗanɗana da komai daga gonaki-sabon lemun tsami verbena zuwa barkono mai ruwan hoda a Ginin Ferry. .Yayin kafa kanti, lokacin da ya ji labarin abin da Scharffenberger ke ciki."Na kasance kamar, yana da kyau sosai, babu mai yin cakulan," in ji shi.“Kamar takarda ce ta bayan gida - kowa yana ɗaukar cakulan a banza.Ba wanda yake tunanin daga ina ya fito da gaske.”Recchiuti ya ce ba zai taba mantawa ba lokacin da Scharffenberger ya fito a kofar gidansa tare da daya daga cikin manyan sandunan cakulan na farko don ba shi dandano mai karfi.

"Lokacin da John Scharffenberger ya zo wurin, ya canza tunaninmu da gaske," in ji Guittard."Ya bude idona akan dandanon cakulan."Guittard ya gane cewa idan kamfanin kakansa zai yi takara a cikin karni na gaba, yana buƙatar haɓakawa.Ya fara tashi zuwa Ecuador, Jamaica, da Madagascar don saduwa da manoma da kansa, inda lokaci-lokaci yakan shiga Steinberg a filayen jirgin sama masu nisa.Ya ce an dauki shekaru shida ko bakwai kafin a iya gano yadda ake yin cakulan mai kyau."Mun canza komai: lokaci, zazzabi, dandano.Mun sake horar da dukan ƙungiyar kuma mun sanya ma'auni masu mahimmanci a kowane mataki, don fitar da mafi kyawun kowane wake.Mun canza ta wake, saboda ba za ku iya gasa da niƙa Ecuador kamar Madagascar ba.Ya dogara gaba ɗaya akan abin da wake yake so. "

Shekaru 20 bayan haka, Dandelion Chocolate shine haske na gaba, yana ɗaukar wannan ɗanɗanon cakulan mai ƙarfi kuma ya watsar da shi cikin bayanan martaba.Dandelion ya buɗe sabon gininsa mai ban sha'awa akan titin 16th bara, kuma yana girmama al'adar masana'antar cakulan da ta zo gabanta, cike da bulo da aka fallasa, manyan katako, da cikakkun bayanai na tagulla.Amma sha'awar Dandelion asalinsu ɗaya ne: Kowane mashaya cakulan, an naɗe shi kamar tikitin zinare, yana da nau'in wake ɗaya daga wani wuri.Dandelion yana amfani da wake na cacao da sukari kawai, don haka babu wani abin da zai rufe tsaftataccen ɗanɗanon wake.Ba kamar manyan masana'antun ba, irin su Hershey's ko Ghirardelli, waɗanda suke jan mafi yawan wakensu daga Afirka, suna gasa su duka a cikin zafin jiki iri ɗaya, sa'an nan kuma sanya abubuwa masu yawa don jin daɗin dandano, wannan hanya ce mai inganci.Kuma baya ga sanya kaso a kan tambari, suna ƙara bayanin ɗanɗano, daga launin ruwan kasa da ayaba zuwa jajayen 'ya'yan itace da sultry taba.

"Akwai nau'ikan bayanan ɗanɗano da yawa da zan yi aiki da su," in ji shugabar Lisa Vega, wacce ke kera duk abubuwan da ake ba da kayan zaki a gidan abinci da kanti."Misali, ka ce kana son yin apple kek.Za ku je kasuwar manoma ku gwada duk nau'ikan apples iri-iri, waɗanda duk suna da bayanin ɗanɗano daban-daban da laushi, ko tart ko crunchy.A ƙarshe za ku iya dandana cakulan ta wannan hanyar, lokacin da kuka sami damar samun duk waɗannan asali daban-daban.Idan kawai kun taɓa samun murabba'in cakulan madara na Ghirardelli, ɗaukar wannan cizon na farko na mashaya Dandelion ƙwarewa ce ta daban.Dandelion ya kwatanta dandanon mashaya da aka yi daga gida ɗaya a Costa Rica kamar yadda yake da "bayanin kula na caramel na zinariya, ganache, da mazugi na waffle."Wani, daga Madagascar, yana haifar da 'ya'yan itacen tart, a cikin nau'i na "cakulan rasberi da lemun tsami."

Ghirardelli da Scharffen Berger yanzu duka mallakar manyan kamfanoni ne, Ghirardelli na Lindt da Scharffen Berger na Hershey's.(Robert Steinberg ya mutu a cikin 2008 yana da shekaru 61, 'yan shekaru bayan John Scharffenberger ya sayar da kamfanin, a 2005.) Guittard da Dandelion suna ci gaba da al'adar gida."Da kaina, Ina jin yawancin kamfanonin wake-to-bar suna ginawa a kan abin da [Scharffenberger] ya yi," in ji Guittard."Ina tsammanin Dandelion yana da yawa na dillali da ƙwarewar gidan abinci, wanda ke da kyau ga cakulan, kuma yana da kyau ga mutane su fahimci tsarin."A tsakiyar masana'antar Dandelion, Bloom Chocolate Salon gidan cin abinci ne na zaune wanda ke ba da karin kumallo, shayi na rana, jirgin ruwan cakulan, jirgin ice creams, kuma ba shakka, cakulan zafi.Idan Scharffenberger ya kasance trailblazer, Dandelion a ƙarshe yana ba da ƙarin hankali ga sana'a, yana nuna tsarin yin cakulan a cikin masana'anta da ke da gaskiya, tare da gilashin gilashin da ke ba abokan ciniki damar kallon tsarin yin mashaya.

Komawa a cikin ƙarni, har yanzu akwai hanyoyi da yawa don jin daɗin tarihin cakulan mai arzikin San Francisco: tono cikin fudge sundae a Ghirardelli Square, yin burodin nau'in brownies tare da murabba'in duhu na Scharffen Berger, yin kukis tare da guntun cakulan lashe kyautar Guittard. , ko jin daɗin sandunan Dandelion da aka yi daga wake da ke kewaye da equator.Kuma idan kuna son kwalin cakulan don masoyinku ko kanku, zaku iya ziyartar Recchiuti a Ginin Ferry.Recchiuti, kamar yawancin chocolatiers da masu dafa irin kek, sun fi son Valrhona, alamar Faransanci wanda shine ma'aunin zinare a cikin dafa abinci.Amma kuma yana yin wasa a Guittard, wanda ke siyar wa ɗimbin sauran gidajen cin abinci na gida, wuraren yin burodi, da wuraren cin abinci, gami da Mister Jiu's, Che Fico, Jane Bakery, da Bi-Rite Creamery.

“Masu yin burodi da yawa sun san mu ta hanyar yin burodi,” in ji Amy Guittard, wacce ke tare da mahaifinta a matsayin tsara na biyar na iyali."Amma a koyaushe ina cewa, tabbas kuna cin cakulan mu fiye da yadda kuka sani."

Cramming don nemo kyautar Valentine ta minti na ƙarshe?Anan akwai ra'ayoyi guda bakwai waɗanda ke nuna cakulan da a zahiri aka yi a nan San Francisco.Bonus: Dukansu suna da kyawawan marufi.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2hUIqjio3E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7Iy7hwNcb0

suzy@lstchocolatemachine.com

www.lschocolatemachine.com

 


Lokacin aikawa: Juni-08-2020